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North America, United States, Alaska, Fairweather, Southeast Ridge

Fairweather, Southeast Ridge. Joe Lackey and I were landed in beautiful weather on the Fairweather Glacier. After a false start, we started up on April 21. In five days of windy mornings and sunny afternoons, we got to the top on April 25. We made a marathon descent down the Carpé Ridge on the sixth day. The route offers good and bad rock, lots of knife-edged ridge, deep-snow slopes, tolerable bivouacs. It climbs 10,000 vertical feet. The route was previously climbed by Canadians in 1989.

Paul Kallmes