American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Good Neighbor Peak, Mount Vancouver

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

Good Neighbor Peak, Mount Vancouver. On April 21, Kennan Harvey and I flew to the south face of Vancouver with Gulf Air. Unsettled weather was followed by clearing on April 23. We started climbing on the 24th and camped that night at 12,500 feet. After a day to acclimatize, on April 26 we summited on Good Neighbor Peak in white-out conditions. We camped on the col between Good Neighbor and Centennial Peaks, where we were stormbound for a day. We descended in a brief clearing on the 28th. We had followed the route first climbed in 1993 by Pilling and Diedrich. [See AAJ, 1994, pages 87-89.] After reaching Base Camp, we had a 12-day storm. We were able to travel on only three of those days for a gain of a mere six miles. The weather improved and allowed us to ski and hike the remaining 95 miles to the Alaska Highway in eight days.

Seth Shaw

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