American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Exploratory Mountaineering in the Revelation Mountains

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

Exploratory Mountaineering in the Revelation Mountains. After two weeks of frustrating waiting in Anchorage in one of the worst Mays in recent years, Paul Gonzalez and Scott Raynor were flown to the Lyman Glacier in the northern Revelation Mountains on May 11, followed by Fred Beckey and me on May 13. During our two-week stay in the mountains, we climbed three peaks and failed on a few others. Our first mountain was P 9076, which we climbed by its east-face couloir, a direct line to the summit (IV, 5.9, Al). We climbed the second, P 6780, mostly on skis by one of its south-face couloirs. On a second try, we climbed from a col on the north side of P 8910 to its rime-crusted east ridge, which we followed to the summit (III, 5.4). We explored nearby glaciers on skis on inclement days. We were continually faced with unconsoli dated sugar snow. Stormy weather kept rock climbing to a minimum. We had a seven-day storm, some blue skies and lots of wind. On May 26, most of our gear was flown to the 1500-foot contour level on the Big River, just west of Mount Hesperus. The gravel-bar airstrip was barely big enough to land. We spent two days walking the 30 miles from our Lyman Glacier Base Camp to the Big River Cache, from which we were picked up on May 31.

James J. Funsten,† Unafilliated

†Recipient of an American Alpine Club Mountaineering Fellowship grant.

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