American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Mather, North Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

Mather, North Ridge. In three short days, Jeff Apple Benowitz and I reached the bottom of the climb from the Denali Park Road via Glacier Creek. The lower part of the ridge has impossibly rotten rock. We avoided this by climbing a 2000-foot couloir. From the top of the couloir, we hiked up a thousand feet, dug a snow cave and slept until the welcome freeze of night returned. After crossing the plateau, we got our first look at the most thrilling part of the route. The plateau narrowed into the summit ridge, the last 1000 feet of which were thin and corniced, cresting and falling through space. We took turns standing on the summit cornice, reaching it on June 30.

Michael Litzow, Alaska Alpine Club

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