American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Dartmouth Mountaineering Club

  • Club Activities
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. During the last three years the D.M.C. has been revitalized by a core of enthusiastic students, with 1993 being another active year. With heavy snowfall and abundant ice, a winter-skills workshop was run by members to introduce new students to mountaineering and ice climbing. More experienced climbers went to Huntington Ravine, Smuggler’s Notch and Cannon Cliff. Notable ascents included Tyler Stableford’s and Scott Porter’s late-winter climb of the Black Dike on Cannon.

Eric Liedecker and Frazier Miller spent the winter enjoying the Andes between Patagonia and the Cordillera Central. The pair climbed Cerro El Morado (4850 meters) in the Cordillera Central, Volcan Osorno in the Chilean Lake District, and alpine granite at Cerro Catedral outside Bariloche, Argentina. They also explored the Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre massifs and tried easy routes on Techado Negro and Cerro Solo.

In late March, led by Doug White and Chris Carson, 13 members escaped from the New England cold to the warm sun and soaring cracks of Canyonlands in Utah. Highlights of the outing included summiting Colorado National Monument, doing handstands atop Owl Rock in Arches (to the astonishment of many a Winnebagoist), and sleeping on top of Castleton Tower. In addition, students punished themselves on the vertical jam-cracks at Indian Creek. Later, we were disappointed to learn of the loss of access to these cliffs. While most of the students braved the 40-hour van ride back to Hanover, Amy Barnhorst, Chris Jones, Dana Morawitz and Keith Rainville spent the rest of the spring term climbing in California. They enjoyed classic climbs at Joshua Tree including Illusion Dweller, Beckey routes at Whitney Portal in the Sierra, and perfect fingerlocks on Yosemite’s Serenity Cracks.

Back at Dartmouth, spring through late fall was spent climbing in the White Mountains and Shawangunks. Club members took advantage of the rounded granite domes of Whitehorse and Cannon as well as the overhanging schist of Rumney. Tyler Stableford spent the summer working as an intern at Climbing magazine. Tom Douglas, Jens Voges and James Ziobro traveled to Ecuador to climb the high volcanoes there.

After two and a half years of hard work, Dean Engle completed his history of the D.M.C. called Talus. From the founding of the club by Jack Durrance in the 1930s through the gifted free climbers of the 1980s, Talus related the history of one of this country’s most colorful and successful college mountaineering clubs.

Keith Rainville

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