American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Chinese Karakoram, K2 Attempt from the North

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

K2 Attempt from the North. Russians Alexei Klimin, Ms. Elena Glushko, Nikolai Yurakovski and I as leader, Mexican Ricardo Torres and Germans Wolfgang Knohenhauer and Hans Stegmair sought to climb the North Ridge of K2 but we were unsuccessful. Originally, we wanted to make a new route up the wall to the left of the north ridge. We started out with 23 camels from Mazar Dara on July 12 and set up Base Camp at 3800 meters on the 17th. On July 20, we left Advance Base, following the 1982 Japanese route on the north ridge. We established Camps I and II at 5500 and 6000 meters on July 24 and 29. Bad weather set in. We still managed to put Camps III, IV and V at 6500, 6700 and 6750 meters on August 4, 10 and 11. On August 12, two reached a high point of 6800 meters.

Vladmir Balyberdin, Russia

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.