American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Tibet, Cho Oyu from the North in the Post-Monsoon

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

Cho Oyu from the North in the Post-Monsoon. Although all the climbers of Cho Oyu, with the exception of Krzysztof Wielicki’s expedition (see above), used the standard route on Cho Oyu on its western side, there were seven expeditions that approached from Nepal without permission from the Tibetan authorities. Those who came from the north with Tibetan permission are given with the summiters and the date of ascent: 10 Koreans led by Kang Tae-Sun: Um Hong-Gil, Choi Byung-Soo, Min Kyoung-Tae on September 10; 9 French led by Jean-Pierre Frachon: Jean-Christophe Lafaille, Dominique Caillat, Frederic Faure on September 30; 14 Japanese led by Kuniaki Yagihara: Yoshio Ogata, Hideji Nazuka, Mitsuyoshi Sato, Fumiaki Goto, Ryushi Hoshino, Tsuyoshi Akiyama on October 8; Osamu Tanabe, Shinsuke Ezuka, Pasang Tshering Sherpa, Lobsang Sangbu Sherpa on October 11; Kuniaki Yagihara, Tsutomu Miyazaki, Mrs. Fumie Yoshida, Tsutomu Terada and Sherpas Nawang Sakya, Dawa Tashi and Nima Dorje on October 12. Other expeditions were not successful. Led by Arturo Squinobal, 7 Italians reached 7700 meters on September 24, and led by Marino Giacometti, 6 Italians and a German got to 7900 meters on October 18. Three Japanese, led by Masami Abe, probably got no higher than a foresummit on September 23. Seven Spaniards under the leadership of Josep María Maixe claimed an ascent on September 20, when Iñake Ochoa joined Americans led by Keith Brown, but all four stopped on a foresummit just below the top on the eastern edge of the plateau (see below).

Elizabeth Hawley

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