American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Tibet, Shisha Pangma Ascents of Main and Central Summits and Attempts in the Post-Monsoon

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

Shisha Pangma Ascents of Main and Central Summits and Attempts in the Post-Monsoon. An expedition of 10 Koreans led by Kang Tae-Sun climbed the normal route on Shisha Pangma. They claimed that Um Hong-Gil and Min Kyoung-Tae reached the summit on September 29, but Americans (see below) said that they themselves had gained only a middle summit, as had the Koreans before them. One member, Park Bueoung-Tae, disappeared on September 29 and apparently fell to his death. Led by Krzysztof Wielicki, 4 Poles, 1 Italian, and 1 Portuguese climbed on the south of the peak. On October 7, Pole Piotr Pusternik and Italian Marco Bianchi got to the main summit by the Slovene route and Wielicki completed a new route (see below). Also on the south face, but on the British route, were 2 Spaniards and 1 Frenchwoman. On October 4, Oscar Cadiach, Manuel de la Matta and Mlle Chantal Mauduit reached the summit. On October 8, three of 4 Americans led by Keith Brown got close to the central summit, to the same point reached by the Koreans, an hour before the arrival of three Spaniards. Of 6 Spaniards led by Josep Maria Maixe, Jaume Garrosset, Rafael López and leader Maixe reached the same point as the Koreans and Americans also on October 8. 4 Slovenes also attemped the normal route, but stopped at the central summit. Leader Matej Kranjc got to that summit on October 10, followed on the 11th by Iztok Tomazin (see below). Unsuccessful were 5 Italians and 2 Bulgarians led by Pietro Ratti. They reached a high point of 6400 meters on September 17 and 26. Led by Carles Vallès, 4 Spanish Catalans hoped to climb the normal route, but the snow conditions were so dangerous during September that they made no attempt at all.

Elizabeth Hawley

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