Everest, Other Pre-monsoon North-Col Ascents and Attempt. An expedition of eight Chinese and eight Taiwanese was led by Chinese Zeng Shu-Sheng and Taiwanese Mrs. Lee Chengyen. On May 5, Chinese Chhimi, Gyatso, Khetsun, Phubu and Wang Yong-Feng and Taiwanese Wu Chin-Hsiung reached the summit. Eleven Irish climbers and two Britons were led by Dawson Stelfox. On May 27, Stelfox reached the summit. Since he holds dual Irish and British nationality, he pulled the neat trick of being the first Irishman to climb the peak and the first Briton to climb it from the north, 69 years after Mallory and Irvine had disappeared there. Stelfox and Frank Nugent set out together from camp at 8300 meters but Nugent had problems with his oxygen apparatus and had to turn back. Stelfox continued on alone over the Second Step and to the summit. The next day, May 27, Tony Burke and Robbie Fenlon made another attempt, turned back at 8500 meters by bad weather. An expedition of eight Swiss had been led by Gaudenz Bass, but he had to leave early because of illness and handed over the leadership to Christoph Jezler. They reached a high point of 7700 meters on May 23.

Elizabeth Hawley