American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Tibet, Chomo Lönzo

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

Chomo Lönzo. A 9-member Japanese expedition of Rikkyo University led by Mitsumasa Ushikubo made the second ascent of Chomo Lönzo (7790 meters, 25,558 feet), which lies entirely in Tibet in the Makalu group. This was the second ascent of the peak by a new route. The first ascent had been made in 1954 by French climbers led by Jean Franco, who climbed from the Makalu Col. The Japanese placed Base Camp at 4750 meters on the Kangshung Glacier on September 20. They then placed Camps I, II, III and IV at 5300, 5800, 6300 and 6950, the last on October 12. The first summit attempt was stopped by high winds on October 19 at 7250 meters. The next day, Camp III was destroyed by wind and had to be reestablished on the 21st. On October 24, Hiroaki Takeishi, Katsumasa Takahashi, Shuma Jimbo and Hideaki Watanabe started from Camp IV for the summit. The first two reached the top, but the last two had to retreat from 7500 meters. More details, a route sketch and a photograph of the crux of the route appear in Iwa To Yuki of February, 1994.

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