Shayaz, Eastern Hindu Kush. Our expedition was composed of Yoshihisa Tagawa, leader, Jiro Tomonaga, Wataru Kawakami and me (f). We made the first ascent of Shayaz (6050 meters, 19,849 feet), which lies west of the Yarkhun River. From the roadhead at Paur, we walked up the Yarkhun to Yashkist, where we turned southwest up the Siru valley. We established Base Camp beside the moraine-covered Siru Glacier at 3850 meters on June 28. We climbed moraine to Camp I at 4390 meters on June 29. From there to Camp III, we had to be careful because of crevasses and avalanche danger. Camps II and III were set up on July 2 and 4 at 4910 and 5430 meters. The latter was in a col on the north ridge. The three men prepared the route to the summit from Camp III on July 5. Just above Camp III were 200 meters of 50° ice. On July 6, they climbed the ridge easily to another 240 meters of steep ice just below the summit, which they reached at 12:27 P.M.
Haruyo Hasegawa, Nagasaki Hokuryo Alpine Club, Japan