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Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat

Nanga Parbat. Our international expedition was a commercial but not a guided one. We ascended a variation of the Kinshofer route, climbing the snow couloir to the right of the normal arête. We were Frenchman Yves Durieux, German Rüdiger Schleypen, Briton Adrian Dubois, Poles Miroslaw Konewka, Bogdan Stefko and I as leader. We reached Base Camp on August 8. Stefko and I climbed to the summit on August 24 in cold windy conditions. We had left Camp IV at one A.M., reached the top at 11:30 A.M. and returned to Camp IV at three P.M. Schleypen and Konewka left Camp IV early on August 27, bivouacked at 8000 meters in good weather and continued to the summit on the morning of the 28th. They were back in Camp IV at five P.M. Durieux and Dubois curtailed their attempt on August 31 at 7300 meters. The expedition went well despite the Chilas who tried hard to live up to their atrocious reputation. At 56, Schleypen became the oldest person to climb Nanga Parbat. It is his sixth 8000er.

Ryszard Pawlowski, Himalayan Guides, Pole living in Scotland