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Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat

Nanga Parbat. Our expedition was composed of Ichiro Hosoda, Yosuke Kurita, Shinji Chiba, Hideki Omiya, Toshiyuki Kitamura, Yasuhiko Mochizuki, Tsuyoshi Kokubo and me as leader. We took four days from Bunal to reach on July 26 the foot of the Diamir face. We placed Camps I, II and III at 5000, 6000 and 6600 meters on July 27, 31 and August 7. On August 14, Mochizuki and Chiba traversed the snow plateau and established Camp IV at 7200 meters. Because of bad weather, they remained at Camp IV on the 15th, but they left at midnight. Chiba had to quit after two hours and returned to camp. Mochizuki kept on, climbed a gully in the west face of the summit cone and got to the top at four P.M. of the 16th. He started down at once but, overtaken by darkness and fearing crevasses, he bivouacked in a small crevasse without sleeping bag, tent or stove. At six A.M., he was at Camp IV. He and Chiba descended to Camp II and, with others, to Base Camp the next day.

Tadakiyo Sakahara, Japanese Teachers’ Expedition