Ultar Attempt. After acclimatizing by climbing the neighbor peak Bublimotin from the Hassanabad side, Geir Arne Bore, Jan Ivar BØe, Kim TophØj Olsen and I attempted Ultar, hoping to reach the south ridge via the east face. This was similar to the Japanese and British routes. We established Camp I at 4900 meters and on July 8, Camp II at 5400 meters. After five days of bad weather, we climbed in dangerous snow conditions to establish Camp III at 5800 meters on July 13. Another four days of heavy snowfall followed during which one of us suffered from frostbite. After 16 days, we withdrew from the east face. During the descent in another snowstorm, another one of us miraculously survived with only minor injuries when he was swept off unroped and fell 150 meters.

Jo Wang, Norsk Tindeklub