American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Baintha Brakk (Ogre) Attempt and Tragedy

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

Baintha Brakk (Ogre) Attempt and Tragedy. Our expedition hoped to climb the south buttress of Baintha Brakk. We were Swiss Phillip Groebke, Germans Michael Wärthl, Jochen Haase, Ansgar Baving, Florian Köfferlein and I. We got to Base Camp at 4500 meters on August 5. Despite two weeks of miserable weather, we fixed rope on the buttress up to 6100 meters on mixed rock and ice. Our plan was to continue up the route alpine-style in two teams of three climbers each. Two attempts on 5.10, A2, which reached 6200 meters, failed because of bad weather. On August 28, when the weather seemed to improve, we started our last attempt. The next day, Groebke fell while jümaring and was killed immediately. He was out of sight when he fell and so nobody witnessed what happened. We gave up any further efforts.

Tom Dauer, Deutscher Alpenverein

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