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Asia, Pakistan, Baintha Brakk Attempt

Baintha Brakk Attempt. Takeshi Nakazima, Kohtaro Toyoda, Takashi Kasai and I as leader set up Base Camp on June 17 at 4450 meters on the left side of the Choktoi Glacier. We started climbing on the 20th and established Advance Base at 4850 below the icefall on June 22. Four porters helped us to Advance Base. We climbed the center of the icefall but had to keep changing the route. We sited a deposit camp at 5350 meters in the cwm on June 30. After fixing 450 meters (10 individual ropes) of line to the gully, we set up Camp I at 5700 meters on the col between Baintha Brakk and Baintha Brakk II on July 7. Although we carried up to there enough food and equipment and stayed until July 27, we could get no higher than 5850 meters. Not only was the weather bad, but we found the route between Base Camp and Camp I troublesome.

Hideki Yoshida, Shinji University Alpine Club, Japan