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Asia, Pakistan, Uzun Brakk Attempt

Uzun Brakk Attempt. Jim Donini and I had as objective a two-man alpine-style climb of Uzun Brakk (6422 meters, 21,069 feet). My wife Joanne accompanied us to Base Camp. Technically, the peak is still unclimbed by any route, although the British came very close in their 1980 climb from the east, from the Uzun Brakk Glacier. Our objective was a 7000-foot face rising from the Biafo Glacier on the southwest side of the mountain. We established Base Camp at 13,500 feet along the eastern side of the Biafo on June 10. Four days of carrying loads to the base of the route some five miles up the glacier gave us time to scout the route and acclimatize. The weather was unstable most of the season. We encountered four or five days of high pressure and then week- long storms. On June 15, we launched our first attempt, reaching 17,500 feet in a day and a half. We then sat in storm for another day before descending. Bad weather forced us to wait until June 20 for another try. In four days, we reached 20,000 feet. All that remained was 600 feet of hard but beautiful climbing, followed by easier snow and ice to the summit. The one more day of good weather was not to be and we could see a huge storm brewing. By midday it was snowing as we started to descend. The storm lasted for five more days after we reached the glacier. On June 29, we reached Askole on the way home.

Jack Tackle