Asia, Pakistan, Broad Peak

Publication Year: 1994.

Broad Peak. Two Japanese expeditions successfully climbed Broad Peak by the normal route. Koji Sekine was the leader of one and Nima Temba Sherpa was the climbing leader. On July 21, Masakatsu Tamura, Nobuhiro Tsuji and porters Rajib Shah and Sarwar Khan reached the summit, followed on July 29 by Nima Temba solo. Osamu Tanabe was the leader of the seven-member Tokai Alpine Club team. Hampered by bad weather, they made two unsuccessful tries. Finally, on August 24, Tanabe, Takashi Nakamura, Kazuya Mino, Kenichi Uchida and Shinsuke Ezuka reached the summit, having bivouacked at 7600 meters. An Italian-German and an Italian expedition were successful. Of ten climbers led by Fausto De Stefani, on July 7 six reached the summit: Albert Brugger, Sergio De Leo, Tobias Heymann, Marco Bianchi, Christian Kunter and De Stefani, who with this climb has now completed the ascent of ten 8000ers. Sergio Martini led five Italians. He and Abele Blanc got to the summit. The following expeditions were not successful: 5 Americans led by Peter Cole; 5 Andorrans led by Gerald Olm Palmitjavila; 16 Koreans led by Hong Jung-Pyo; and 6 Mexicans led by Luis Martín Sánchez.