American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, K2 Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

K2 Attempt. Our international team was led by Netherlander Wim Van Harskamp and further comprised Tim Styles, Matt Comesky, Michael White head, Bob Schelfont and me. We established Base Camp at 5100 meters after a two-week delay caused by the customs over some previously shipped equipment. Having missed the “longer” good weather spells, we had only eleven days suitable for climbing during the 64 spent at the mountain. We set up Advance Base, Camps I, II and III at 5600, 6000, 6800 and 7400 meters. Twice storms ripped out Camp II, which had to be reestablished. Following a two-day stay at Camp III, Styles and I were equipped and acclimatized for a summit attempt. Then, 19 days of storm kept everyone at Base Camp. On August 15, I ascended alone to Camp I and again descended in poor weather and high winds. We began our homeward journey on August 18.

Jeff Lakes, Alpine Club of Canada

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