American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, K2 Attempt via the South Spur

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

K2 Attempt via the South Spur. Our expedition which attempted the south spur of K2 was composed of Jordi Anglés, Jordi Badiella, Toni Bros, Jordi Cañameras, Josep Cañellas, Lluís Capdevila, Andrià Font, Jordi Latorre, Jaume Matas, Francesc Zamora, Francesc Zapater and me as leader. We got to Base Camp on July 1 after seven days of march. We set out for the south spur on July 3, fixing rope up to 6200 meters. Not finding an adequate camp site higher, we placed Camp I at 5500 meters on the 8th. On July 20, we had overcome the most difficult part (UIAA IV and V, 60°-70° ice) and dug an ice shelf for Camp II at 6450 meters. To increase the capacity of the camp, we placed another tent at 6550 meters on July 28. On July 30, along with three Canadians who were attempting the Kukuczka route, we climbed to a crevasse at 7000 meters, where we pitched Camp III. From August 1 to 20, the weather stayed bad. On both August 22 and 23, two groups of four left Base Camp. Four bivouacked at Camp III and climbed toward the Shoulder but had to turn back at 7200 meters. We abandoned the climb on August 26.

Josep Aced, Centre Excursionista de Terrassa, Spain

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