Aq Task. A joint Indo-Japanese expedition was led by Indian Hukam Singh and me. After arriving at Base Camp at 4800 meters on July 18, we established Camp I at 5600 meters on the Yangbar Glacier on July 21. From there, the eight Indians headed for the south ridge while we seven Japanese attacked the southwest face. We Japanese climbed the central couloir and fixed 1500 meters of rope. We cut a shelf in the ice for Camp II at 6200 meters. On August 5, Ryoji Okamoto, Masao Yokoyama and I completed the upper rock difficulties and stopped on snow slopes some 150 meters from the top in order to give the Indians the chance to make the first ascent, which we expected them to do the next day. On August 6, Nobuo Yamamoto and Yasufumi Mizote did go to the summit (7016 meters, 23,019 feet). On August 8, Prem Singh, P.T. Sherpa, Mohan Singh, Khem Raj, Sange Sherpa, Wangchuk Sherpa and Hira Ram completed their route and also got to the top. More details and a photograph appear in Iwa To Yuki of December, 1993.
Minoru Nagoshi, Hiroshima Alpine Club