Swagarohini I. Swargarohini I (6252 meters, 20,512 feet) had been attempted unsuccessfully by fifteen expeditions. An Indian expedition claimed that they reached a point five meters lower than the summit but had to stop because a cornice made it too dangerous to climb all the way to the summit. We found no such cornice on the summit. Our expedition was composed of Birger Andrén, Olle Edholm, Kjell Sundqvist, my wife Ingela and me. The route lay up a rock ridge on the eastern side of the south face, up a high rock pinnacle, along a snowfield to an ice gully that led through the line of ice walls that rim the upper part of the face. Finally, we climbed the easy east-southeast ridge to a summit ice slope. Base Camp was at 4100 meters at Kiarkuti and Advance Base at 5000 meters on the rock ridge. We bivouacked twice on the way to the summit. On June 7, Andrén, my wife Ingela and I reached the summit. This excellent route has everything: scrambling on the rock ridge, steep rock on the pinnacle, steep ice in the gully, snow plodding on the east-southeast ridge and a beautifully exposed summit where one can see far into Tibet.

Åke Nilsson, Svenska Klätterforbundet