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Asia, Nepal, P 6455, Palchung Hamga Himal

P 6455, Palchung Hamga Himal. We had received permission to climb Kanjiroba by its northern side. However, because of the difficulty of the approach up the Langu Khola, this proved to be impossible. Instead, Dr. Fritz Mross, Dr. Helga and Helmut Schempp, Dr. Gudrun Scharifi and I crossed the Dolphu Kang to the settlement of Dalphu, ascended the Chhapa Khola to Phopagaon eventually to the Dunai airstrip. In the Palchung Hamga Himal, we made the first ascent of P 6455 (21,178 feet; 29°41´22? N, 82°52´27? E) with Base Camp at 5000 meters and Camp I at 5400 meters. We climbed the corniced ice ridge which rose up to 50°. Travel is difficult in this area. We had to climb over ten passes of 5200 to 5700 meters. Every day, we had at least one difficult section where we had to build a bridge or climb with UIAA III difficulty.

Franz Kröll, Mountain Guide, Austria