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Asia, Nepal, Tripura Hiunchuli II

Tripura Hiunchuli II. The members of our expedition were Mariano Diaz, Vincent Devlamynck, Francis Parrot, Olivier Pohl, Michel Lentz, Juany Pérez, Didier Demesy and I as leader. We approached via Jumla in western Nepal. We set out with 35 porters and on the recommendation of a local installed our first Base Camp at the foot of Dudu Kundare. Since we were not in a good valley, we set up a new Base Camp six days later up the Jagdula Khola, which we had to cross twice by Tirolean traverse. On October 5, we placed Advance Base on the glacier at 4600 meters. The next day, Demesy and I set up Camp I at 5230 meters, having found deep and unstable snow. We two placed Camp II on October 7 at 5450 meters after climbing for 5½ hours. On October 8, we two continued up the southwest ridge to complete the first ascent of this summit. (The main peak is 6553 meters or 21,499 feet. This summit is the second of four along the southeast ridge, probably about 6450 meters high.—Editor.)

Alain Bigey, Club Alpin Français