American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Lobuje Southeast, Southeast Face, 1992

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

Lobuje Southeast, Southeast Face, 1992. A Korean team led by Kim Jae-Soo made what is probably a new route on the 750-meter-high southeast face of the southeast summit (c. 5970 meters) of Lobuje East. They made two unsuccessful attempts on September 5 and 11, 1992. Leader Kim, Lee Sung-Chun and Park Young-Sik started the final ascent on September 15, 1992, helped by ropes fixed during the attempts. After 13 difficult pitches they were caught by bad weather but continued up the 6½ pitches to the top without more fixed rope. The new route began left of the broad buttress and left of the 1990 Czech alpine-style direttissima of Miroslav and Michal Coubal. The two lines joined after a few pitches. Then the Korean route went 20 to 50 meters to the left before crossing the Czech route in the upper part of the face.

Józef Nyka, Editor, Taternik, Poland

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