Kangtega, Northeast Buttress. The German Alpine Club (DAV) Training Expedition was led by me. After an 11-day approach from Jiri, we set up Base Camp on September 21 at 4900 meters on the moraine-covered Hinku Nup Glacier. It snowed for the next week. On the 28th, we established Advance Base at 5100 meters at the foot of the Kangtega Glacier. We fixed 700 meters of rope on the rock spur on the right (north) of that glacier, which gave us access to the glacier itself. On October 1, we dug a snow cave on the glacier at 6080 meters. Following the 1986 route of Jay Smith, Mark Hesse and Wally Teare, on October 3 Bruno Bayer and Christian Treimer reached the summit. Other summit climbs were as follows: Joachim Alle, Gerhard Wagner, Michael Wegner on the 4th, Robert Rackl, Gerhard Mülstegen on the 6th, Andreas Sippel, Alexander Issler, Dieter Eisner on the 7th and Wolfram Schröter, Jens Webersinn on the 9th.
Dieter Elsner, Deutscher Alpenverein