American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Mount Everest, Pre-Monsoon Summary

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

Mount Everest, Nepal Pre-Monsoon Summary. 6 Nepalese led by Mrs. Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, Summit reached on April 22 by Mrs. Pasang Lhamu Sherpa and Sherpas Sonam Tshering, Dawa Tashi, Lhakpa Nuru, Pemba Nuru, Nawang Thile. Pasang Lhamu and Sonam Tshering died on the descent; 23 Americans, 1 Canadian, 1 South African led by Todd Burleson, Summit reached on May 10 by Americans Alex Lowe, John Helenek, John Dufficy, Wally Berg, Canadian Michael Sutton and Sherpas Apa, Dawa Nuru, Chuldin Temba; 14 South Koreans led by Miss Ji Hyun-Ok, Summit reached on May 10 by Miss Ji Hyun-Ok, Miss Kim Soon-Joo, Miss Choi Oh-Soon and Sherpas Ang Dawa, Ang Tshering, Sona Dendu, Rinzin; 8 Australians, 1 Macedonian, 1 Indian led by Tashi Tenzing, Summit reached on May 10 by Australian Michael Groom, Indian Lobsang Tshering Bhutia, the second of whom died in a fall on the descent; 9 Britons led by John Barry, Summit reached on May 10 by Harry Taylor and on May 17 by Miss Rebecca Stephens and Sherpas Ang Pasang and Kami Tshering; 14 Indians and 2 Nepalese led by Miss Bachendri Pal, Summit reached on May 10 by Indians Miss Dickey Dolma, Miss Santosh Yadav, Miss Kunga Bhutia, Baldev Kunwer and Sherpas Ongda Chiring, Na Temba, Kosang Dorje, Dorje and on May 16 by Indians Miss Radha Devi Thakur, Rajiv Sharma, Miss Deepu Sharma, Mrs. Savita Martolia, Miss Norbu Dolma, Miss Suman Kutiyal and Sherpas Nima Dorje, Tenzing, Lobsang Jangbu, Nga Temba; 6 Americans originally led by Paul Pfau, who became sick and never reached Base Camp and passed leadership to Michael Sinclair, Summit reached on May 10 by Miss Mary (Dolly) Lefever, Mark Selland, Charles Armatys, Pema Temba Sherpa and Moti Lal Gurung and on May 16 by Michael Sinclair, Mark Rabold, Phinzo Sherpa, Dorje Sherpa, Durga Tamang. Climbing coleader Dan Aguilar selflessly assisted in the evacuation of the bodies of Mrs. Pasang Lhamu Sherpa and Lobsang Tshering Bhutia and so gave up any chance for the summit; 7 New Zealanders, 1 Briton, 1 Frenchman, 1 Finn led by Rob Hall, Summit reached on May 10 by Finn Veikka Gustafsson, New Zealanders Mrs. Jan Arnold, Rob Hall, Jonathan Gluckman and Sherpas Ang Chumbi, Ang Dorje, Nuru; 1 Lithuanian, Summit reached on May 10 by Vladas Vitkauskas; 9 Russians and 1 Belarus led by Aleksandr Volgin, Attempt on west ridge failed at 6800 meters on April 26, Summit reached on May 10 by Aleksei Muraviov, on May 15 by Vladimir Janochkin, on May 16 by Vladimir Bashkirov, on May 17 by Vladimir Koroteyev, all Russians; 9 Spanish Catalans led by Lluis Belvis, Summit reached on May 16 by Josep Pujante, Ang Phurba Sherpa, on May 17 by Oscar Cadiach; 9 Spanish Basques led by Josu Feijoo, Summit reached on May 16 by Joxe Maria Oñate, Alberto Zerain, José Ramón Aguirre and Sherpas Jongbu and Ang Rita (this was the eighth ascent of Everest by Ang Rita); 3 Americans and 1 Australian led by Keith Brown, Summit reached on May 16 by Americans Jan Harris, Keith Brown; 7 South Koreans led by Lee Jong-Ryang, Attempt on southwest face failed at 8450 meters on May 5, Summit reached by South Col on May 16 by Park Young-Seok, An Jin-Seob, Kim Tae-Kon, Kaji Sherpa; Nam Wan-oo died in a fall on the southwest face and An Jin-Seob fell as he descended from the summit. All these ascents were completed via the South Col and southeast ridge. 13 South Koreans led by Jeon Byoung-Man attempted unsuccessfully to climb the south pillar to the southeast ridge, reaching 8600 meters on May 8.

Elizabeth Hawley

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