American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentine-Chilean Patagonia, Dientes de Rambo, Torre Norte del Paine and Paineta

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

Dientes de Rambo, Torre Norte del Paine and Paineta. After climbing the Torre Central del Paine [see full article—Editor], American Peter Garber and I stayed on to attempt new lines. Joined by Argentine Nicolas Benedetti and American Liane Owen, we four put four new multi-pitch routes up on the Dientes de Rambo, a series of granite spires opposite the towers to the east. These were of 5.9 to 5.11 difficulty, all on excellent rock. Regrettably, Benedetti took a nasty fall from an off-width crack and broke his ankle, forcing evacuation. American Kevin Starr, Garber and I climbed the Torre Norte del Paine by the normal Monzino route in atrocious weather, the second time for me and again in bad weather. The season closed with Garber and me putting up a new route on the west face of Paineta (5.10, A1), to the right of the French route. The 15 pitches ended with a final roof, surmounted with aid, and finished the hard climbing.

Phillip Lloyd*, Mountaineering Club of South Africa

*Tragically killed on the Torre Norte del Paine on December 14, 1993.

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