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South America, Argentine-Chilean Patagonia, Guillaument and Mermoz

Guillaumet and Mermoz. Briton Andy Parkin and American Stephen Koch completed a new route on the Aguja Guillaumet’s southeast face on February 2. The difficult route lies to the left of the Piola route. It begins up a large central couloir and finally joins the northeast ridge a little below the summit. They had a hard bergschrund crossing and thereafter followed the couloir. Thin ice and 5.9 rock pitches gave way to steep ice. After Koch left to climb Fitz Roy, on February 21 Parkin soloed a difficult new ice route on the southeast face of the Aguja Mermoz. He started up an icy ramp to the right of the Slovene route which slants up to the left to gain a snowfield at three-quarters height. There was much 80° to 85° ice and some 90° ice before he gained the snowfield. From the right corner of the snowfield, he took a steep couloir to the summit ridge. Diagrams of both routes appear in High of August, 1993. Parkin then soloed the Whillans route on Poincenot.