American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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South America, Chile—Northern Andes, Guane-Guane, Lauca National Park

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

Guane-Guane, Lauca National Park. Fritz J. Hausmann, Chilean Gastón Oyarzún and I departed Arica on September 7 and paused at Putre for the night. The next three days were spent acclimating at Parinacota village. On September 10,we climbed Guane-Guane (5097 meters, 16,730 feet), via the west ridge. The ascent was primarily third class with short snowfields near the summit. We found a 100-meter-long, one-meter-high wall which dates from antiquity in the col between the west ridge and a sub-peak. Ozarzún found pre-Columbian potsherds during the ascent. On September 11, we placed Base Camp several kilometers from the west face of Volcán Parinacota (6342 meters) and the next day, Camp I at 5000 meters in a raging windstorm. On September 13, we attempted the peak but were pushed back above 6000 meters by extreme winds and poor snow conditions. It is necessary to obtain permission from the Chilean government to climb border peaks, and this is enforced in the Park.

John Edward Longnecker

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