American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Peaks in Southern Cordillera Apolobamba

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

Peaks in Southern Cordillera Apolobamba. Ken Findlay, Les Holbert, Pamela Holt, Ray Dimmock, Ian Wadsworth, Sue Cooper, Ashley Hardwell and I visited the Cordillera Apolobamba, where we were able to locate a southern area which seems to have had no visits by British teams. We managed to make five British first ascents of named peaks and four of unnamed ones. The journey to our chosen Base Camp at Sunchuli was interrupted at Paso Osipal when our drivers ran out of petrol! Fortunately, two days later we were able to employ a passing miner and his truck to complete the journey. On July 30, Findlay, Dimmock, Holbert, Hardwell, Wadsworth and I climbed Cerro Sunchuli (5305 meters) northeast of the pass from its west col. On August 1, Hardwell, Findlay, Wadsworth and I traversed the central and southwest summits of Iscacuchu (5650, 5585 meters) and Mita (5500 meters) south of the pass. That same day, Dimmock, Cooper and Holt climbed Lisa (5400 meters), which lies between Mita and the pass. On August 2, we moved to Base Camp near the Paso Sunchuli. The climbs there were mostly second ascents and first British ascents. On August 4, Hardwell, Holbert, Holt, Findlay and I climbed Cuchillo I (5655 meters) by the east side. On August 6, Findlay and I ascended Yanaorco (5600 meters) by the north side and Hardwell and Holbert climbed Corohuari (5668 meters) from the south. On August 7, Findlay, Wadsworth, Holt and I climbed onto the ridge crest that runs west from Cuchillo I and reached the top of P 5600 before bivouacking. The next day we traversed east over Cavayani (5704 meters) and P 5550 and P 5420. We were held up for several days by snowfall. On August 14, Hardwell, Holbert, Wadsworth, Holt, Findlay, Cooper and I headed towards Cuchillo II, climbing P 5400 on the way. After a bivouac, all but Wadsworth and Holbert climbed Cuchillo II (5450 meters) by the south ridge. We returned to La Paz on August 23. On August 28, Findlay and Wadsworth reached the summit of Illimani.

Paul Hudson, Leeds Mountaineering Club, England

*New route.

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