American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Apolobamba, 1992

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 1994

Cordillera Apolobamba, 1992. Our expedition consisted of Ian Farmer, Steve Phillips, Rob Weight, Shona MacKenzie, Dr. Vivek Kulkarni and me as leader. We arrived in La Paz on June 26, 1992 and, after organizing food and transport, left for the Cordillera Apolobamba on July 3. We arrived at 4900-meter Huanacuni Base Camp on the 6th. This was at the head of the Huanacuni valley, southeast of Antaquilla, between the two lakes east of Lago Nubi. Our original objective was Huanacuni, but we failed to climb it due to poor conditions on our chosen route. We did climb Huanacuni Este* (c. 5500 meters, 18,045 feet) by the east couloir on July 19, 1992. Originally we planned to continue along the ridge to P 5760 but decided against this as it involved a traverse over difficult ground, followed by a steep snow couloir. On July 14, we climbed the German route, the southwest ridge, of Nubi (5710 meters, 18,734 feet) and traversed north to P 5760 (18,898 feet). On July 23, we took the bus to the Paso Pelechuco, our second Base Camp. On the 24th, from Antaquilla, we climbed two peaks southwest of Pelechuco Huaracha. The first was BJ 2 (5330 meters, 17,487 feet), climbed by the southeast glacier and ridge. We then traversed toward Pelechuco Huracha to BJ 1 (5300 meters, 17,389 feet). Both were first climbed by Germans in 1969. On July 25, we climbed Katantica Oeste* (5630 meters, 18,461 feet) by the west face. On July 28, we traversed the three peaks north of Katantica Oeste, Apollo 11 (5650 meters, 18,537 feet), Bures (5560 meters, 18,242 feet) and Radioafición (5580 meters, 18,307 feet), having climbed the west face of Apollo 11*.

Ade Miller, Southampton University Mountaineering Club, England

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