American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
Black Diamond Logo

South America, Peru, Rondoy Attempt, Cordillera Huayhuash

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

Rondoy Attempt, Cordillera Huayhuash. Mark Richey and I attempted a direct new route on the west face of Rondoy (5883 meters, 19,301 feet) from the Quebrada Jahuacocha. We left our Camp on August 8 and spent six hours on the approach to the wall’s base across steep grassy slopes above the lake and through a convoluted glacier which spills down from Rondoy’s neighbor, Yerupajá. The next day, we started up a steep, sometimes vertical, ice gully for 350 meters and then climbed a mixed rock-and-ice section of 150 meters to a sloping bivouac. On August 10, we continued up more steep ice and attempted to traverse below a rotten rock headwall, hoping to gain a lower-angled mixed face above. The traverse proved dangerous as the rock offered no points of protection and the ice below it was rotten. Richey, who was in the lead, observed a large ice band which was detached in places and threatened to fall. We opted for descent and reached the base of the wall in ten rappels.

Barry Rugo

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.