American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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South America, Peru, Chacraraju Este Attempts

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

Chacraraju Este Attempts. On July 18, Slovenes Pavle Kozjek and Gregor Kresal tackled the unclimbed east face of Chacraraju Este. The conditions were bad and so they were forced to bivouac after 500 meters. The next day, they climbed another 200 meters and reached the northeast ridge, where they joined the 1962 Terray route still some 250 meters below the summit. Fixed ropes were still visible. They descended the Terray route without continuing on to the summit. On July 28, the same pair repeated the 1979 Japanese route on the south face of Chacraraju Este, which is to the left of the Richey-Brewer route. The route ended some distance to the left of the summit. To get to the summit itself was virtually impossible because of enormous unstable cornices. They made the approach across the glacier, the ascent and descent along the same route took them only a total of 13 hours.

Franci Savenc, Planinska zveza Slovenije

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