American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Artesonraju

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

Artesonraju. There were two Slovene groups that climbed on Artesonraju this season. On June 1, Andrej Kecman and Dusan Kosir climbed much of a new route on the southwest face. They ascended mostly snow except for 150 meters through séracs on the left side of the face. Halfway up the face, they headed for 40 meters between an ice tower on the left and a sérac shaped like an hourglass on the right at 70°, continued another 40 meters at 80° on the right and went up steeply to the plateau. After that they ascended at 60° to 70° to the top of the pyramid, where they joined the Austrian route. They did not continue on to the top because of unstable soft snow but descended the Austrian route. On July 9, Tomo Sbrizaj and Sebastjan Semrajc tackled the southeast face of Artesonraju, climbing the steep triangle as far as the normal route. On July 18, Borut Naglic joined them and they repeated the route. Naglic climbed on to the summit while the other two descended when they were about 100 meters from the top.

Franci Savenc, Planinska zveza Slovenije

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