American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies and Coast Range, Mount Edziza, 1992

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

Mount Edziza, 1992. Rocco Osborn, Ian Spooner and I explored and climbed in the Edziza Provincial Park, British Columbia, in July 1992. We flew from near Telegraph Creek to Buckley Lake, which is within the park. We then hiked to the central western base of Edziza (2787 meters, 9144 feet). We enjoyed good weather on the hike in, but we suffered frustration and delay in finding a bag we had airdropped. This had tangled in the floats of the plane and had overshot the drop zone when we finally managed to release it. The climb was completed from the broad volcanic plateau due west of the summit. We made an ascent of low technical standard between the glaciers to the crater rim. From there, we traversed the glaciated summit crater, about two kilometers across, to the eastern rock pinnacles along the rim. Most spectacular in our view of surrounding peaks was the long line of sharply glaciated Coastal Range summits. We finally spent time along the lower slopes, exploring the volcanic landscape of cinder cones and ash-covered glaciers. Once back at Telegraph Creek, we concluded the trip with a kayak journey down the Stikine River and out to Wrangell, Alaska.

David Graber

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