American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, McArther Peak, South Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

McArthur Peak, South Face. On June 1, Paul Gonzales, Fred Beckey, Mark Landreville and I were dropped on the Hubbard Glacier at the landing site for Logan’s east ridge. The following day we sledded loads up-glacier to set up a camp just east of McArthur Peak. Beckey’s persistent cough convinced him to have Andy Williams fly him back to Kluane Lake. After he left, we hauled a final load to our camp at 7200 feet. On June 4, we ate and watched our route, the central spur on the south face. We started climbing that night and bivouacked four times on the route, at 9500, 11,500 and 12,800 feet and on the summit plateau. We got to the top (14,400 feet) at four P.M. on June 9. We descended the north ridge in only five hours! The next day, we paid for our easy descent with a ten-mile slog around the mountain. We had some snowfall every day, but cold, cloudy weather made for good conditions. We found good use for some rock gear but climbed generally on ice and snow. Our route was well to the left of the Canadian route of 1988. (Grade VI, 55°-60° ice.)

Gregory Collum, R.L.M.C.

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