American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan East Ridge by All-Female Team

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

Mount Logan East Ridge by All-Female Team. Sylvia Forest, Leanne Alison, Andrea Petzold and I took advantage of the unusually clear spring weather, ascending and descending the east ridge in 14 days. Climbing capsule-style on the lower more technical sections of the ridge, we established three camps up to 13,500 feet. Switching to alpine-style, we were forced by heavy trail-breaking to camp three more times before the summit bid. We chose the east peak, about 200 feet lower than the main summit, due to an impending storm and health concerns. This is the first successful all-woman ascent of Logan and the first time the east ridge has been climbed by a women’s party. In 1977, women, including Everest summiter Sharon Wood, skied up the King Trench route but turned back a few hundred yards short of their objective, the west peak.

Mary Clayton, Alpine Club of Canada

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