American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California, El Capitan, "Flight of the Albatross"

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

El Capitan, “Flight of the Albatross. ” In the spring, Will Oxx and I climbed “The Flight of the Albatross” (VI, 5.10, A3+), between Magic Mushroom and the Shield. It starts at Heart Ledge and climbs up the right of the Heart. It continues for 13 independent pitches to where it joins the Shield, one pitch below Chickenhead Ledge. The route, which is sure to become a classic, parallels the Shield route on the Shield Headwall. It climbs to a magnificent ledge, “The Canoe,” which is clearly visible from near the top of the Shield Headwall. We drilled 72 holes for rivets and bolts. We spent seven days on this climb, with ropes fixed to the Heart.

John Middendorf

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