American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington, Vasiliki Tower, South Face Direct, Wine Spires

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

Vasiliki Tower, South Face Direct, Wine Spires. This is a two- or three-pitch, well protected climb (5.9). We started at the col between Vasiliki and Burgundy Spires with scrambling to a rightward-trending dihedral system below the south face. Instead of following the dihedrals on the normal route, we stepped left onto fifth-class cracks and up a single hand crack (5.7). This narrowed to a finger crack (5.8+) and to a belay where the crack narrowed to a seam. The second pitch began with a 15-foot traverse left (5.9) and up to a widening finger crack. We followed this 5.7 crack system for 50 feet rightward, aiming towards a large dihedral, which we followed to the top. Chris Dolejska and I did this on the same 18-hour day, August 8, as the Silver Star northwest ridge climb.

Fletch Taylor, Unaffiliated

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