American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, St. Elias and Other Peaks

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

St. Elias and Other Peaks. Shortly before the Editor received the sad news that in September the prominent Czech climber Mirosla v Šmid had been killed soloing on Lost Arrow Spire in Yosemite, he got a letter from Šmid, telling that with Swiss friends, Ruedi Homberger, Ruedi’s son Urs and Reto Rüesch, he had made an eight-day variant of the boundary route on St. Elias from the northwest, reaching the summit on May 25 and 27. The first ascent of that route was made in 1965 by Boyd Everett, Gordon Benner, Joseph Davidson, Dennis Eberl, Leon Story and William Van de Graaf of the Harvard Mountaineering Club. (See AAJ, 1966, pages 19-24.) Šmid then climbed Hunter by the west ridge, soloed McKinley by the West Rib and ascended Foraker in mid-July by its northeast ridge.

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