American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Unclimbed Peaks in the Chigmit Mountains

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

Unclimbed Peaks in the Chigmit Mountains. On July 7, Cliff Hudson’s son from Talkeetna flew Martin Göggelmann and me to the south side of Chakachamna Lake for a week’s climbing. We set up Base Camp on a sandbank near the lake, amid bear tracks. The next day, we walked eight kilometers south up an unnamed glacier, the second glacier to the east of Shamrock Glacier. It flows nearly into the lake. Near its head, it is T-shaped. Across the lake stands Mount Spurr, which erupted three times in July 1992. Our high camp was on the glacier at 3000 feet. The weather continued warm and good. In the next days, we made three first ascents. Southeast of camp rose P 6300 (1920 meters) at the head of the glacier. We climbed the 700-meter-high, 45° northwest ice face to the base of the 200-meter-high summit pyramid, which we ascended up a small, steep ice gully. This began with a section of 90° ice which gave way to mixed 65° rotten rock and loose snow. Our second peak was P 6310 (1923 meters), above the western arm of the T. We climbed the east face to the north col between P 7230 and P 6310. The last 300 meters to the col were mixed climbing, ice of 60° and rock of UIAAII difficulty. From the col we ascended west to a 400-meter-high, 50° ice couloir. The 150-meter summit ridge was of very loose rock of UIAA IV difficulty. The last peak, P c. 5900 (c. 1799 meters), the smallest rock tower above the eastern arm of the T. We climbed the south side. The last 150 meters were very rotten rock of UIAA III to IV. A day later we returned to the lake and were flown out the next day. The rock is very bad and so it was not possible to make any difficult rock climb.

Eduard Birnbacher, Deutscher Alpenverein

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