American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Plumb Spire, North Triple Peak, Trinity Spire and Whiteout Spire, Kichatna Spires

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

Plumb Spire, North Triple Peak, Trinity Spire and Whiteout Spire, Kichatna Spires. Calvin Hebert and I flew to the Tatina Glacier on June 7 and stayed through July 2. The typical unsettled weather forced us to abandon our plans for a new Grade VI rock climb on the south face of Mount Nevermore. Instead, we elected to pursue smaller, less committing projects. We climbed a new rock route on Plumb Spire, “The Forbidden Wall,” in the central crack system on the northwest face (V, 5.10d, 650 meters). Next we climbed the north couloir of North Triple (IV, 5.6, alpine-ice 4, 800 meters). We then climbed a new rock route on Trinity Spire, the right-facing corner system, just right of the center of the southeast face, “The Hersey Tooth,” (V, 5.11b, 500 meters). Lastly, I soloed Whiteout Spire (III, alpine-ice 3) in typical whiteout conditions. I climbed the left edge of the Tatina Glacier to the moderate east-facing ice slope up to the knife-edged ridge. All summits were reached in whiteouts.

Douglas Byerly, Unaffiliated

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