American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Huntington and McKinley, Ridge of No Return

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

Huntington and McKinley, Ridge of No Return. Four young Frenchmen, Xavier Cret, Robin Molinatti, Pierre Rizzardo and Paul Robach, climbed the Terray route on Mount Huntington in the spring of 1993 in a three-day ascent. They then turned to the Ridge of No Return, which had been climbed only by Renato Casarotto in 1984 solo, who spent 12 days on the long, heavily corniced ridge. After the bottom rock buttress, a precarious section of knife-edged ridge is defended by instable cornices, where the French climbers took several falls through them. They took only three days to reach the top of the South Buttress at about 15,000 feet, which had also been Casarotto’s high point. This is a vertical rise of about 6500 feet in three miles.

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