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Asia, Tibet, Changsanglamu

Changsanglamu. Changsanglamu (6324 meters, 20,748 feet) rises south of the Shigatse-Lhasa road between Kado La and Langkarzu. A beautiful lake lies 40 minutes above Base Camp. Legend tells us that formerly the lake was very muddy, but the goddess Changsanglamu cleaned it in only one night. The mountain was named for the goddess. The Tibetan leader was Dorje Phu and I was the overall leader. We established Base Camp, Camp I and II at 4700, 5500 and 5700 meters on April 25, 30 and May 1. We climbed the northeast ridge. From 5900 meters, the mixed climbing was from 50° to 60° until the final part, which was steeper. We fixed rope from 5900 meters to the summit. The summit was reached on May 2 by Japanese Motohiro Iizawa, Akira Nishizawa and Yoshihito Komatsu and Tibetans Danzan Dorje, Zhung Shishfing, Kaizong, Miss Jiji and Miss Zhuoxia. Because Changsanglamu is a holy mountain to the Tibetans, we stopped just below the very top.

Ayatoshi Momose, Mountain Association of Nagano, Japan