AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, Southeastern China, Siguniang, Sichuan

Siguniang, Sichuan. Japanese led by Chiharu Yoshimura climbed Siguniang (6250 meters, 20,506 feet) by its south face. They established Base Camp at 3500 meters on June 29 and Advance Base in the cirque below the face at 4600 meters on July 1. The route ascended the right-hand buttress on the left side of the cirque. They fixed 600 meters of rope on rock of 5.10, A2 difficulty. Camps I, II and III were placed on the buttress at 4900, 5200 and 5500 meters on July 6, 15 and 22. Above Camp III, the route joined the west ridge. A first summit attempt was turned back on July 23 at the second pinnacle on the west ridge. On July 24, Keiji Kodera, Isao Saita at 9:45 A.M. and Terumasa Ryokume and Shigeki Yamamoto at 12:30 P.M. reached the summit. On July 25, leader Chiharu Yoshimura, Ryuji Uchiyama and Ryo Moriyama also got to the top. Fuller accounts and impressive photographs appear in Iwa To Yuki, December, 1992 and February, 1993.