American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat Winter Attempt, 1992-3

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1993

Nanga Parbat Winter Attempt, 1992-3. Our team was composed of climbers Mlle Monique Loscos and me, four trekkers and liaison officer Ashraf Aman. We hoped to climb Nanga Parbat for the first time in winter by the Schell route on the Rupal Face. We placed Base Camp and Advance Base at 3600 and 4400 meters on December 20 and 23. In bad weather, we two climbers climbed to 5200 meters with supplies on December 27 and bivouacked at 5500 meters the next day. On January 1 and 2, 1993, I climbed solo to 6100 meters, where I bivouacked. That night the wind was so strong that I had to take the tent down. I returned to Base Camp on January 4. On January 8, I again set out and bivouacked at 5400 meters. On the 9th, I climbed to 6500 meters in bad weather with very strong winds. I could find no proper place for a bivouac. I returned to Base Camp on the 10th. We gave up the expedition on January 13.

Eric Monier, Club Alpin Français

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