American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Kinshofer Route, Diamir Flank

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1993

Nanga Parbat, Kinshofer Route, Diamir Flank. Two South Korean expeditions combined their efforts. The four-man Gwangju Wooam expedition led by Park Chan-Gi arrived on May 14 and began preparing the route. The 14-man Kyung Nam Alpine Club expedition led by Cho Hyung-Gyu arrived at Base Camp at 4200 meters on May 27. Both groups worked on the route, fixing much rope up to 7300 meters and establishing Camps I, II, III and IV at 5200, 6200, 7000 and 7600 meters on May 20, June 11, 27 and 28. At 5:30 A.M. on June 29, Park Hee-Taek and Song Jea-Deuk of the Kyung Nam group and Kim Ju-Hyun and Cho Young-Jung of the Gwangju party set out for the summit, but soon Cho fell behind and quit. Park and Kim reached the summit at 3:15 P.M. Park descended 100 meters for protection from the wind and cold to wait for Song, while Kim continued on down. After Song passed Park, it took him 45 minutes more to reach the top, where he arrived at five P.M. Song was exhausted and Kim was very tired. It was a difficult descent to Camp IV as Song needed much help and encouragement. No further summit attempt was made since the other climbers had to help the summit climbers down. [Cho Hyung-Gyu and Kim Ju-Hyun have been kind enough to supply us with this information.]

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