AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat Attempt, 1991

Nanga Parbat Attempt, 1991. In AAJ, 1992, we made a brief mention of an unsuccessful Japanese expedition to Nanga Parbat. The Iwa To Yuki Annual on page 218 gives details, which we summarize here. The 8-member team, led by Seishi Wada, attempted to make the second ascent of the route on the southest Rupal Buttress first climbed by Poles in 1985. They placed Base Camp and Camp I on the Bazhin Glacier at 3650 and 4500 meters. They then entered the great couloir in which they placed Camp II at 5100 meters on June 24, 1991. Rockfall struck Yasushi Takatsuka on July 2, requiring evacuation. Camp III was established above the couloir on July 18 at 6020 meters. Camps IV and V were placed at 6690 and 7240 meters on August 1 and 6. On August 7, Wada, Tadashi Kajiyama and Tatsuya Ogata made a summit bid but were forced back. They had to wait out a storm for three days in Camp IV on the descent. On August 19, 1991, Kajiyama and Tadashi Tsunoda made a final attempt and climbed 14 pitches to 7950 meters, three short of the ridge, but had to retreat. Thus ended 75 days of effort.