American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Asia, Pakistan, Istor-O-Nal North Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1993

Istor-O-Nal North Attempt. We had hoped to climb Istor-O-Nal North (7373 meters, 24,190 feet) by the Lapuch route. The members were Germans Kurt Bartenschlager, Gerhard Grassl, Eckard Kunze, Norbert Pfab, Austrians Erich Bosina, Adolf Deichstetter, Icelander Ari Gudmudsson and I as leader. We were in the region from August 18 to September 4. It took us three days up the Tirich valley and the Tirich Glacier to reach Babu Base Camp at 4900 meters on the left side of the Upper Tirich Glacier. The route ascended the Nobaison Glacier to Camp I at 5700 meters. Camp I was on a rock spur which bordered the northern arm of the Nobaison Glacier on the right. We took a route different from the previous two ascents in the first icefall. Camp II was in a basin at 6050 meters and Camp III at the upper edge of the second sérac zone at 6800 meters. A case of pulmonary edema and other sickness reduced our strength. Not until August 31 could we make a final summit attempt. Just then the weather, which had been perfect, broke. Nevertheless, a summit push reached 7200 meters in bad weather. We left Base Camp on September 4.

Ernst Schwarzenlander, Österreichischer Alpenverein

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